Top food critic Jay Rayner has recently shared his experience dining at the Royal Nawaab in Stockport, a massive curry buffet that has garnered attention since its grand opening in April. In his latest column for the Financial Times, Rayner reflects on his initial skepticism towards buffets and describes how this vibrant establishment has changed his perspective.
The Royal Nawaab is housed in a renovated building that previously belonged to the Co-Op bank. With an investment of around £15 million, the venue has transformed into a stunning space resembling a “classy cruise ship,” where diners can enjoy an extravagant buffet experience. The restaurant boasts three banqueting suites capable of seating over 1,000 guests, along with a buffet area that accommodates more than 400 people. Rayner noted that the restaurant was bustling during his visit, requiring him to leverage a local connection to secure a table.
Rayner arrived with a preconceived bias, admitting to having previously “sneered” at the concept of buffets. However, he was quickly greeted with enthusiasm from the staff, who were eager to guide him through the menu, highlighting must-try dishes like lamb chops and nihari. This warm welcome did not go unnoticed, as it set a positive tone for his experience.
As he explored the expansive buffet, Rayner was struck by the sheer variety of dishes available, many of which are crafted to challenge the conventional notions of buffet fare. He remarked on the staggering selection—over 100 dishes available on any given day, showcasing an impressive array of pakoras, tikkas, biryanis, and masalas.
Among the standout dishes was the pani puri—a small, delicate lentil flour globe filled with nutty chaat and accompanied by a tamarind-based dressing. Rayner described the mouthfuls as “perfect” and indicative of the high standards set by Royal Nawaab. The lamb chops impressed him with their smoky char, while the deep-fried masala-marinated fish offered a delightful burst of flavor.
Moving on to the curries, Rayner praised traditional favorites like lamb nihari, a dark stew rich with spices. However, he also took the time to highlight some less common dishes that were just as impressive. For instance, he discovered lamb paya, which features lamb trotters cooked to a tender state and served in a restorative broth. Another noteworthy dish he encountered was haleem, a rich concoction of lamb and lentils that has been stewed for hours, resulting in a paste-like texture deeply infused with spices.
Accompanying these sumptuous dishes were an assortment of flavorful naan breads, including blistered Peshawari naan and garlic naan crusted with sesame seeds. Rayner acknowledged the balanced offering of fried items, noting that while some non-Asian options like chicken nuggets and lasagna were present, they were not the primary focus. The quick turnover of fried foods ensured that nothing went soggy, a common pitfall in buffet settings.
Desserts also arrived with a tantalizing flair. Rayner described indulging in deep-fried jalebi and warm gulab jamun—sweet, syrup-soaked treats that left a lasting impression. He concluded his experience with a revelation about buffets. Having dismissed them in the past as lacking in culinary integrity, Rayner found himself admiring the Royal Nawaab as a “classy rebuttal” to those assumptions.
In summary, Jay Rayner’s visit to the Royal Nawaab in Stockport demonstrated that a buffet can transcend its traditional boundaries, providing a diverse and high-quality dining experience. This establishment challenges the stereotype of buffets as mere quantity over quality. The Royal Nawaab exemplifies how a buffet can offer a meticulous selection of carefully crafted dishes, making it a noteworthy destination for both locals and food enthusiasts alike.
Overall, Rayner’s verdict embodies a sincere acknowledgment of the restaurant’s culinary prowess. Perhaps his experience serves as a reminder that every dining setting—be it fine dining or a buffet—has the potential to surprise and delight. For anyone in the Stockport area or traveling through, the Royal Nawaab clearly stands out as a culinary landmark worth exploring.
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