In the soft embrace of the Adriatic Sea, Croatia’s lesser-known treasures await discovery—most notably the island of Vis, often overshadowed by its renowned neighbor, the Blue Cave of Biševo. While the alluring phenomenon draws in around 1,500 visitors a day, contributing to an unmistakable sense of overtourism, the true charm of this region lies not in its crowded attractions but in its tranquil landscapes and laid-back lifestyle.
A Journey to Vis: Beyond the Crowds
The island, geographically situated two hours south of Split by ferry, serves as a much-needed respite from the bustling tourist spots. After paying the entrance fee to the Blue Cave—€24 for a mere 10-minute visit—many feel disillusioned by a highly commercialized experience. Boats come and go in an organized frenzy, and soon it becomes evident that this landscape is part of a tourist conveyor belt. With multiple speedboat tours racing through the area, my instincts tell me that a deeper exploration of Vis is in order.
Finding Solace in Rukavac
I find refuge in Rukavac, a sleepy village along the southeastern coast, known for its authenticity and charm. Here, Xania and Craig Wear, a British couple, run WearActive, a business offering a blend of wellness and adventure. They provide a range of "relaxingly active" holidays. Their approach embodies the essence of “actively relaxing”—a philosophy that resonates perfectly as it encourages visitors to engage without the frenzy typically associated with tourism.
My experience begins with an early morning yoga session on the flat rocks of Bili Bok beach, followed by a refreshing swim in the turquoise waters of nearby Srebrna beach. Daily activities include kayaking, paddleboarding, and leisurely bicycle rides, immersing me in the serene landscapes unique to Vis.
The Allure of Stiniva Bay
The highlight of my journey arrives the next morning as I paddle six miles to Stiniva Bay, celebrated for its stunning natural beauty. Secluded by steep limestone cliffs, it offers a unique sense of tranquility—especially in the early hours when the crowds haven’t yet arrived. Here, I truly understand the joys of kayaking, gliding through the peaceful waters and soaking in the sunlight, seemingly a world away from the bustling Blue Cave.
Craig, an avid paddleboarder, leads my group well, ensuring each moment is filled with laughter and exploration. We return to Rukavac invigorated and connected to nature, embracing the slow rhythm that Vis generously offers.
A Taste of Local Life
Evenings transform into vibrant gatherings in Vis town, where the local dining scene comes cradled in warm summer breezes. As a visitor, I stumble upon an unpretentious restaurant, Konoba Jastožera, situated gracefully over the water. Here, I savor a delicious meal—two courses for around €25, demonstrating that not all experiences must be overpriced or commercialized.
Despite its recent boom in tourism, particularly following the filming of "Mamma Mia! Here We Go Again," Vis maintains its character and charm. Instead of commercial kitsch, you find authenticity and warmth among local eateries and shops, giving you a sense of true Croatian hospitality.
Embracing History and Heritage
The island’s intriguing past also adds depth to the experience. Once a closed military outpost until 1989, remnants of its storied history have been preserved, with military tours taking curious travelers through the remnants of underground tunnels and bunkers. Hiking around Mount Hum reveals hiking trails that provide insight into the island’s history, where notable figures like Tito once hid during tumultuous times.
Such explorations illuminate Vis’s narrative—a place that embodies resilience and tranquility, allowing visitors to appreciate more than just its physical beauty.
A Developing Future
As tourism expands, the impact of active holiday companies is becoming increasingly evident. Xania views this growth positively, recognizing that by promoting adventurous alternatives, the island can showcase its natural wonders while drawing a more diverse crowd. Yet, despite these changes, Vis remains steadfastly committed to maintaining its relaxed and unhurried pace—an invaluable quality in a world that often feels overwhelmingly fast.
In closing, while the Blue Cave may glitter brightly amidst the Adriatic haze, it is the quieter allure of Vis that truly captivates the spirit. Embracing both adventure and relaxation, this island serves as a reminder that the most profound experiences often stem from authenticity and a genuine connection to nature. So for those seeking a mellower side of Croatia, this enchanting island speaks volumes—a place where it is, indeed, not all about money, money, money. Instead, it is about savoring life, one calm moment at a time.
